Asko Dishwasher Repair

Asko dishwashers are built around a stainless steel tub with a lot of stainless hardware underneath, which helps explain why they run so quietly and last so long. The tub itself almost never fails. When an Asko stops cleaning, draining or latching, the cause is nearly always one of a small group of serviceable parts around the sump, the door or the base of the machine.

Water left in the bottom after a cycle is the usual starting point. Asko expects the owner to remove and rinse the filter set in the sump, and when grease and food build up there, the drain pump works against a blockage until it slows or jams. Broken glass, seeds or a fruit label at the pump opening do the same. In Tampa, scale on the filters and spray arms adds to the buildup.

Look at the door, too. Asko doors are balanced by springs and cords on each side, and when one wears or snaps, the door drops open hard instead of easing down. Inlet valves weaken with age and fill slowly. And Asko builds a leak-protection tray into the base: if water reaches it, a float lifts and locks the machine out, so a dishwasher that stopped and will not restart may be doing exactly that.

With the dishwasher off at its switch or breaker, lift out the sump filters and rinse them, and check the pump opening for anything lodged there. Look under the sink for a kinked drain hose, and if a new disposer was just installed, make sure the knockout plug was removed. If a wet base tray is the likely reason it stopped, leave the drying to us, since the leak source still has to be found.

We check the pump, inlet valve, heater circuit and door assembly, test the float switch and trace any water that reached the base. Private wells in places like Plant City or Dade City can send sediment that holds the inlet valve partly open, so we check that screen too. Pumps, valves, springs and switches are worthwhile repairs. A scarce control board on an older model is the harder call.